Moda, consumi, società / Fashion, consumption, society http://elea.unisa.it/xmlui/handle/10556/8815 2026-04-20T11:26:51Z 2026-04-20T11:26:51Z Briatore, Samuele http://elea.unisa.it/xmlui/handle/10556/8774 2026-02-23T07:23:15Z 2025-01-01T00:00:00Z

Elementi performativi del lusso Briatore, Samuele Il lusso è un fenomeno antico legato alla storia delle culture e dei costumi, allo sviluppo dei sistemi economici e all’evoluzione del pensiero filosofico ma è possibile rilevare anche importanti punti di incontro con gli studi performativi. Considerato a lungo fattore di corruzione e di disequilibri sociali, di instabilità politica e degrado morale, il lusso diventa, nell’età moderna, fattore decisivo e strategico del capitalismo e, nel contempo, oggetto di accese polemiche filosofiche circa l’utilità del superfluo e la sua giustificazione morale. Nel corso del tempo, il lusso si è configurato come un concetto difficile da circoscrivere che interroga ed interseca molte sfere del sapere - dall’antropologia alla sociologia, dalle arti performative al marketing - mettendo in evidenza aporie, nessi e correlazioni. Alimentata da istanze culturali, identitarie e simboliche, da processi esistenziali e dinamiche del desiderio che eccedono le regole di mercato e tuttavia lo sostanziano, l’esperienza del lusso è iscritta nella dialettica tra rappresentazione pubblica e processi di soggettivazione, elementi primari degli studi performativi come spazio, tempo ed emozioni diventato determinanti per la comprensione del racconto sociale che definisce un valore aggiunto delle merci non facile da misurare.; Luxury is a known phenomenon tied to the history of cultures and costumes, to the development of economic systems and to the evolution of thinking; however, some major common factors with performing studies can be pointed out. Perceived for a long time as a means of corruption and social inequalities, political instability and moral degradation. Luxury in modern history has become a key element for capitalism and, at the same time, subject of bitter philosophical controversy about the utility of the superfluous and its moral justification. Over time luxury has assumed the form of a complex concept, difficult to circumscribe; its domains cover and intersects various spheres of the knowledge – from anthropology to sociology – from performing arts to marketing –and it underlines aporias, links and multiform correlations. Fueled by cultural, identity and symbolic instances, by existential and dynamic processes of desire that go beyond market rules and yet substantiate it, the experience of luxury is inscribed in the dialectic between public representation and processes of subjectivation. The primary elements of performative studies such as space, time and emotions are crucial to understand the social narrative; although this defines the added value of goods, is not easy to measure. Luxury reconfigures spaces, social relationships, forms of consumption, skills and spheres of influence and power.

2025-01-01T00:00:00Z Camargo Molano, Jessica http://elea.unisa.it/xmlui/handle/10556/8773 2026-02-23T07:23:12Z 2025-01-01T00:00:00Z

Cosa indosseresti se potessi scegliere in un guardaroba infinito? Le scelte di look nel Metaverso Camargo Molano, Jessica In October 2019, at the launch of what was supposed to become the Metaverse of Meta, Mark Zuckerberg appeared dressed in a pair of black jeans, a blue long-sleeved shirt, and a pair of white sneakers. A usual look for Zuckerberg, but the peculiarity was that the owner of Meta showed up in the virtual world and, although he could wear any type of clothing, he preferred to appear in his typical look in the Metaverse as well. If the choice of Zuckerberg was also linked to recognizability and marketing needs, what are the criteria that lead users to choose the clothes to wear in the Metaverse? What would you wear if you could choose from an infinite wardrobe? This is the question underlying the present study that is about the clothing choices of avatars in the Metaverse. On the various platforms, the users of the Metaverse have more or less infinite possibilities in choosing the clothes to wear (in some cases, the only limit is the available budget): in addition to using the clothes already in the archives, they can not only buy new ones, but also modify their own clothes or design new ones. The aim of this analysis is to investigate these choices. By analyzing the clothes used on the main platforms, the research aims to highlight similarities and differences between virtual fashion and real fashion and understand the tastes and aesthetic sense that are developing in the Metaverse.

2025-01-01T00:00:00Z Fiorenza, Elia http://elea.unisa.it/xmlui/handle/10556/8772 2026-02-23T07:23:11Z 2025-01-01T00:00:00Z

Moda e venditori ambulanti in Calabria. Boutique a cielo aperto Fiorenza, Elia Collezioni firmate e di stock di abbigliamento (spesso superate); borse, scarpe e altri prodotti in tessuto; produzioni di pellicceria e cashmere; asciugamani, accappatoi e biancheria intima; pantaloni, camicie e maglie di ogni colore, per stare comodamente a casa, o, il più delle volte, per la vita di ogni giorno. In diversi centri della Calabria, fortemente radicata alla tradizione e all’identità popolare, esiste ancora la vecchia usanza del mercato settimanale, spesso diviso per settori, in cui è possibile ammirare vistosi capi d’abbigliamento. Sui banchi di vendita, gli ambulanti espongono, a costi assolutamente accessibili, prodotti di varia qualità, il top del Made in Italy e le ultime tendenze della moda, nonché prodotti artigianali, che, specie nelle stagioni più calde, attirato e incuriosiscono acquirenti locali e tanti turisti. Il presente studio analizza il fenomeno della “moda su bancarella”, esaminando particolari casi studio che insistono su centri dell’estrema Calabria.; Designer and stock clothing collections (often outdated); bags, shoes and other fabric products; production of fur and cashmere; towels, bathrobes and underwear; trousers, shirts and sweaters of every color, to stay comfortably at home, or, more often than not, for everyday life. In various centers of Calabria, strongly rooted in tradition and popular identity, the old custom of the weekly market still exists, often divided into sectors, where it is possible to admire showy clothing. On the sales counters, street vendors exhibit, at absolutely accessible costs, products of various quality, the top of Made in Italy and the latest fashion trends, as well as handcrafted products, which, especially in the warmer seasons, attract and intrigue local buyers and many tourists. This study analyzes the phenomenon of "fashion on stalls", examining particular case studies that insist on centers in the extreme Calabria.

2025-01-01T00:00:00Z Granato, Salvatore http://elea.unisa.it/xmlui/handle/10556/8771 2026-02-23T07:23:09Z 2025-01-01T00:00:00Z

Di moda e cultura digitale Granato, Salvatore Il design non è solo l’espressione della società moderna e contemporanea, ma è la sua forma dominante. La nascita dell’e-Fashion ha avuto una forte spinta dalla situazione pandemica dovuta al nuovo virus SARS-COVID19 che, nell’ambito della moda, ha fatto sì gli operatori del settore si adoperassero per cercare nuovi mezzi di diffusione sviluppando interazioni innovative tra utente e prodotto. Sfilate digitali, video promozionali, social network e videogiochi sono diventati le nuove passerelle su cui far sfilare i propri capi. Innovativa in questo senso è stata l’apertura del metaverso, un mondo in via di espansione che sta aprendo nuove opportunità di lavoro per i creativi di tutto il mondo. Le possibilità offerte dalle tecnologie informatiche e digitali non hanno condizionato soltanto la comunicazione della moda, ma anche il suo assetto di produzione: tagli laser, stampe 3D, modelli costruiti in digitale e wearable technology hanno mutato radicalmente l’aspetto e la composizione degli abiti offrendo nuove declinazioni del design. Tutti questi nuovi canali di diffusione e di creazione della moda vanno analizzati e studiati approfonditamente, in modo da poterne trarre i tantissimi vantaggi a essi associati, ma contemporaneamente comprenderne gli eventuali rischi. L’articolo esplora gli argomenti sopracitati, analizzandone l’evoluzione e la diffusione, per poi evidenziarne aspetti positivi e negativi su ambiente, uomo e società.; Design is not only the expression of modern and contemporary society, but it is its dominant form. The birth of e-Fashion has had a strong push from the pandemic outburst of the new SARS-COVID19 virus which, in the fashion sector, has led its operators to work to find new means of diffusion by developing innovative user-product interactions. Digital fashion shows, promotional videos, social networks and video games have become the new runways to show the latest innovations. Notable in this sense was the opening of the metaverse, an expanding world that is opening up new job opportunities for creatives from all over the world. The possibilities offered by information and digital technologies have not only influenced the industry communication strategies, but also its technical production: laser cuts, 3D prints, digitally constructed models and wearable technology have radically changed the appearance and composition of clothes, offering unlimited variabilities. All these new means of diffusion and creation must be analyzed and studied in depth in order to find the many advantages associated with them, and at the same time to understand possible risks. The article explores the above-mentioned topics, analyzing their evolution and diffusion, also highlighting their positive and negative aspects on the environment and the society.

2025-01-01T00:00:00Z